Fire Phone & Accessories

Saturday, February 28, 2009

guidelines for printing great photos at home

Guidelines for Printing Great Photos at HomeWriten by Kelly Paal

So you have this great digital camera and youve taken lots of great photos. Now what? Well you could go to a store and have them print your images for you, but isnt that what you did with film? The point of all this great digital technology is that you can print your own photos at home without having to pay someone else to do it. Here are some tips to help you get started:

1. Itll seem like a lot of money at first but spend the money to get a good printer. Six color at least. Ink jets are wonderful for printing snapshots. You wont need more than that. Also look around at the computer brands that sell computer packages for digital printing, the printer that they recommend is perfect for printing photos at home.

2. Buy some photo editing software. There are lots of brands out there many of them for pros but you can easily find software under one hundred dollars that will have lots more options than you will ever use. Look for software that has automatic settings so that the computer can automatically color correct, auto focus, brighten, or darken, etc. At least until you learn number 3.

3. Learn your equipment. Take the time play with the settings. Dont try to print perfect photos right away. Most people with a little time and practice can learn to do basic photo special effects. Give yourself the time to learn.

4. There is one place that you are going to have to spend some money and its on paper. You can have a great image but unfortunately you cannot skimp on paper. Get the nice thick glossy paper, its worth it. Ive tried the cheaper paper, which is good for test prints, but you need the high quality stuff for good prints.

5. DPI, dots per inch. Depending on your printer and your software you may be able to print up to 1200 dpi which is probably unnecessary for what youre doing. For up to a 4 by 6 inch print you only need about 300 dpi. Most people cannot see the difference between a 300 dpi an a 600 dpi at 4 by 6 inches. For 5 by 7 or 8 by 10 you can go up to 600 dpi.

These steps will help you on your way to printing great digital photos at home. Remember though make sure that you have fun printing all those memories.

FYI Just so that you have a frame of reference, Im a professional photographer and I have a six color ink jet that I paid less than $300 for and photo editing software that I paid less than $100. I print my 5 by 7 images for shows at 600 dpi.

About The Author

Copyright 2004 Kelly Paal

Kelly Paal is a Freelance Nature and Landscape Photographer, exhibiting nationally and internationally. Recently she started her own business Kelly Paal Photography (www.kellypaalphotography.com). She has an educational background in photography, business, and commercial art. She enjoys applying graphic design and photography principles to her web design.

your most creative piece of equipment is your tripod

Your Most Creative Piece Of Equipment Is Your TripodWriten by Eric Hartwell

What would you say if someone told you that your tripod is the best piece of equipment to enhance your creativity? Perhaps you would point them in the direction of your latest lens instead. Or your camera bristling with buttons and switches.

Or perhaps you would tell them to go and bother someone else with their trivialities.

But, your tripod can really make you a better photographer. Sure, tripods are heavy, cumbersome and not exactly for the fashion-conscious. But they can really help.

How?

Well, firstly, setting up your camera on to a tripod actually slows you down. And by slowing down, you can start to think about what you are going to take pictures of. Think about where the subject is, where is the light coming from, what viewpoint you need to choose and how you are going to compose the shot.

Then, after mounting your camera on to the tripod, start to think about the exposure settings. Now that you have a rock solid platform, you can open your mind and think about shutter speeds and apertures. It is not uncommon for landscape photographers to use shutter speeds as long as 1, 2 or 4 seconds. The outcome of this is that you can use very small apertures or fantastic depth of field.

Or, alternatively, you can render light trails and human movement blur without risking camera shake. What possibilities can this open up for you? How will you use them? Now you open your world to great images of cityscapes, fairgrounds, water at night, car lights at night, softy lit buildings and many other possibilities.

Eric Hartwell is an experienced photographer and owner of the photography resource website ephotocentral

Friday, February 27, 2009

lens madness

Lens MadnessWriten by Eric Hartwell

A friend of mine is an avid photographer. He has a DSLR with a load of accessories and a series of nice lenses. He recently bought one that cost an arm and a leg and he was pretty proud of it.

On the other side of the coin, my father has a lens for his film SLR that he bought over 30 years ago. It is ragged, chipped and squeaks a bit. But he won't part with it. It was cheap(ish) but it lacks some of the functionality of my friend's DSLR lens.

My friend's lens is huge. I can see him coming in the distance simply because he had a large photo-rucksack on his back to hold all his equipment. It is a splendid piece of glass but requires a tripod or monopod for all but the brightest of conditions.

The lens is also white. It stands out and says to everyone I am a lens to look at. My friend loves it and gives him added impetus to get out there and take pictures.

My father, however, gets the same results - and has been doing for 30 years - with his rag-bag of assorted accessories, some of which are nearing the end of their useful life. His lens, although tatty, produces excellent results and gets HIM out in the field taking shots, just like my friend's does for him.

My father's lens doesn't choose the subject for him, compose the scene and tells him at which point to release the shutter...

.... nor does my friends.

And therein lies the reason why my father is a successful champion of many camera club competitions where my friend has yet to win one

Eric Hartwell runs the photography resource site http://www.theshutter.co.uk and the associated discussion forums as well as the regular weblog at http://thephotographysite.blogspot.com.

inspired vision

Inspired VisionWriten by Imran A Khan

A picture is worth a thousand words, so goes a Chinese proverb. A picture of a smiling child always brings a smile to our face and a picture of hungry and sick people always arouse feelings
of compassion. Every picture if carefully looked at is a story, a piece of art and not just a two dimensional image.

Names like Ansel Adams and Alfred Stieglitz are photographers whose names are etched in the hallways of photographic history with gold. Looking at their works not only provides inspiration
but a new eye and a new dimension to life. Their work is not only photographs, but time frozen forever.

What exactly goes behind making an image is not only skill but an art form. Its an expression and a story told through the eyes of the photographer. Photography helps us to see is cent percent right because it truly does so. It makes the eye wonder and the mind imagine.

Photography can be very rewarding and can lead to times where you feel the power of an image tremendously. A photograph taken at some particular time or at some instance may lead you to
wonder about life, poverty, birds, mountains, hunger, love and unlimited emotions and feelings.

To be a successful photographer you need more energy and perseverance rather than knowledge. To know the basics and technical know how photography does not take as much as
learning techniques and developing ones own style.

Like many professional photographers, one could be on the road to photographic salvation by working hard and giving it your best wile making continuous. Learning with time is something
that has irreplaceable value.

A photographers life can be easy and tough at the same time. The best results are spawned from experience and through experiments. The perils of a night long shoot or the wait for a perfect sunset can be both tiring but nevertheless rewarding when you get first prints out of the lab.

Careers in photography can involve being a freelance photographer, a full time photographer, or an image editor, to name a few. Work ranges from industries such as travel, fashion, journalism, stock art and many others.

Just like any other form of work, photography needs dedication, hard work and patience. The more of these ingredients and the more successful you can be. It becomes more rewarding once
you get into an industry and start creating your own style and niche.

A great photograph is a full expression of what one feels about what is being photographed in the deepest sense, and is, thereby, a true expression of what one feels about life in its entirety
so said Ansel Adams. Had it not been for photography, the world probably would have been a different place, for knowingly or unknowingly we do find solace and entirety in the pictures we
see in everyday of our lives.

The next time you see a picture anywhere stare at it for a while, and try to find the story. Maybe you will find something new about yourself.

I am a freelance Photographer and journalist based in the Middle East. Goto my websites for more info:-

http://www.yemberzal.com

http://www.energyjournalist.com

Thursday, February 26, 2009

watch for strong backlit shots

Watch For Strong Backlit ShotsWriten by Eric Hartwell

Imagine you are on the beach. You and a friend are having a great time, so much so that you want to take a photo to capture the moment.

You get your friend to stand by the water. You vary carefully stand your friend with his back to the sun as you correctly have judged that having the sun behind YOU will cause your friend to squint because HE will be looking into it.

Posed and ready, you take the photo. Luckily, your friend does the same for you (it just goes to show what a great time you are having).

You look at the resulting images. They are poor.

Neither of you are squinting, or at least, you dont think so. But unfortunately the eyes and face are in deep shadow and none of the features are visible.

The reason for this is that the bright background has fooled the camera into underexposing for the face. The background is perfectly exposed but the face isnt.

The trouble is, if you compensate the exposure and expose for the face, you will find the background is overexposed and losing detail of that lovely beach, sea and sky.

There are two possible remedies. First, you could move your friend (and he move you) so that the sun is not behind him or you but to one side. If the sun is in front of your friend and over to one side or the other then you will get light on his face.

The second option is to use fill-in flash. Most cameras will allow fill flash to be used. This will allow the background to be perfectly exposed and the flash will illuminate the subject in the foreground.

Move the subject or use flash

Eric Hartwell runs the photography resource site http://www.theshutter.co.uk and the associated discussion forums as well as the regular weblog at http://thephotographysite.blogspot.com

framing amp mounting your photos

Framing & Mounting Your PhotosWriten by Chris Thomas

Introduction

I often visit friends, relatives and customers and see out of the corner of my eye un-mounted photographs laying on the sideboard or propped up against the kitchen cabinets.
And often they are very good shots.

What a shame that they are not presented more thoughtfully - making a memorable photograph a visual masterpiece which will be passed down the generations.

Framing and Mounting is a specialist but significant part of our business.

Mounting a Photograph or Watercolour

Many schools photographs come presented in cardboard mounts. These are the minimum in transforming a piece of paper into a memorable keepsake.

That photograph can then be put into a frame - with or without the mount and placed on the sideboard in the lounge - or hung on the wall.

In general a mount enhances the photo.

We stock a range of mount boards which can be cut using a special machine to fit around a photograph - or indeed a watercolour - to enhance its appearance. It is conventional to mount a watercolour in cream card, but we have a whole variety of colours, which can be selected to bring out a particular colour in the image or to match the dcor of the hanging environment.

Framing the Photograph or Watercolour

A frame is cut to fit around the mount and either clear or non-reflective glass cut to size and the whole assembly fitted together and sealed.

We stock in excess of 50 frame moulding that we use to make frames. But we have access to over 2000 different mouldings, which come in all colours and textures.

An antique canvas must be treated quite separately from a black and white photo or a group photograph taken at an evening event.

Framing Canvasses

Oil or Acrylic paintings which are canvas based require a quite different treatment.

The canvas must be 'stretched' before framing. This is done by cutting stretcher bars from mature wood. The stretchers must be of the right length to fit the canvas and follow the style of presentation required by the customer.

For example, it is a modern style to stretch the canvas such that the visible image continues around the edge of the canvas stretchers. These paintings do not require a frame; they are hung flat on the wall.

More conventionally the image covers only the front surface of the stretched canvas and the complete stretched assembly is framed using conventional framing techniques.

The canvas image is stretched over the assembled stretchers and then small wedges tapped into carefully cut slots at the rear of the frame to stretch the canvas a little further and tension it up.

Oil and acrylic paintings never have glass in front of the image! In a hot environment the paint will melt into the glass with disastrous results!

Framing Fabrics

We are often asked to frame thin silk or cotton souvenirs brought back from Asian or African holidays.

Such fabrics are a challenge because of their fragility. Using stretchers is generally unwise as the force of stretching might rip the material - to the dismay of the customer. Best to stretch the fabric gently over a board or stretcher assembly using glue to keep the material in place.

Specialist Framing

We have been asked to frame all sorts of things from a military hat to porcelain fragments.

These items often require a Box Frame, one that contains a lot of space!

We insert small specialist mouldings - called slips - behind the glass and the backing board to give the framing depth. Thus objects of considerable size can be placed within the 'box'.

Framing for Antiquity

The materials that we use for mounting and framing are selected to be acid and alkaline free and the glues we use are chemically stable. While we would not claim that our framing will last for centuries, it should be durable and avoid long term discolouration.

Christopher Thomas is both keen photographer and company director of Viewlink Ltd based in Amersham, Uk. The company focusses on digital photo developing for both amateur and commercial photographers. For more articles by Christopher Thomas please visit the company website at http://www.view-link.com.

Wednesday, February 25, 2009

digital photos printing on a budget

Digital Photos: Printing on a BudgetWriten by Laurie McArthur

We are a two printer family. Yes, we have the good printer and the little printer. The little printer is the budget printer and the subject of this article. Anything that's not critical as regards archival permanence gets printed in the little printer.

While the good printer is for archival, arty work, we bought the little printer for run of the mill printing such as e-mails, small family photos, birthday cards for the grandchildren and the like.

Choosing a Budget Printer

The little printer is an Epson Stylus C45 and prints up to A4 size in full colour. It has two ink cartridges: a black cartridge and a three colour cartridge.

My wife sent me up to the post office to get it about six months ago for $79; Australian dollars, that is. Now they've come down in price to $59.

Other manufacturers market their own budget priced printers. Have a look around and you'll find one to meet your budget.

The reproduction of colour and detail is excellent. What more could you ask for in a budget printer?

Lifespan of a Budget Printer

Now, I don't expect a budget printer to have an enduring lifespan. In a commercial print shop I suppose a week would see it out. But with the amount of work it will get at our place it's reasonable to expect to get years of trouble free budget printing out of it.

Slow Printing

The only downside that I can see is that printing a top quality colour photo is slow. A digital photo printed at A4 size at top quality, takes about 20 minutes. But that's fine if budget is the key word and time is on your side. The important thing is your ability to produce quality, budget, colour photos at home. Of course, you won't be printing A4 all the time.

Ink Cartridge Refilling Process

I make a major saving by refilling my ink cartridges with after market (non genuine) ink. This involves removing some ink from the various coloured ink bottles with a syringe and injecting it into the correct ink tank in the ink cartridge.

The refilling process should not be a messy business provided you take suitable precautions. I put some newspaper on the kitchen table for the refilling process. Between each colour, I wash the syringe in a trickle of water, in a jam jar lid, in the laundry tub.

Obstacles to Ink Cartridge Refilling

In the case of Epson, the manufacturer has tried to beat aftermarket ink producers by designing a chip into the cartridge to tell the printer that an empty cartridge is empty. However, not to be thwarted, the aftermarket ink manufacturer has produced a chip reseter to reset the chip to tell the printer that the refilled ink cartridge is full.

The chip reseter is a small computer type gadget, housed in a plastic case and a little bigger than a matchbox. You simply press the ink cartridge against the pins on the chip reseter, a red light flashes and your refilled ink cartridge is ready to go again; as good as new for a small part of the price of a new ink cartridge. Of course, it's a bit time consuming, but that's how it is with budget systems, isn't it?

With other brands of printer it's much more straightforward. Just whip the empty cartridge out, refill it, put it back in, tell the printer it's got a full ink cartridge and away you go.

Budget Photo Printing Paper

By looking around Ebay for budget priced photo printing paper, I've also kept this expense well within the budget requirements for run of the mill digital photo printing jobs.

Archival Permanence

Although the manufacturers of both the budget ink and the budget printing paper assure me that their products are of a high standard, I would not trust an image requiring archival permanence to my budget printing system. Of course, it may be quite OK. I have no way of knowing.

Warranty

I've had no print head problems with the budget ink, but the possibility exists that you could clog the print head and void your warranty at the same time. I work it out this way:

They sell the printers cheap and make their money on the ink and paper. A black and a colour cartridge cost about a third to a half the cost of a new printer. Bundled with the new printer is a pair of cartridges. If I need to buy a new printer every fifth ink cartridge refill, I'll be in front. But I'm doing better than that.

All on a Budget

Following this budget digital photo printing regime you can be one of those families or singles with photos on the fridge, photos on the TV, photos on the microwave, photos everywhere, all on a budget.

Laurie McArthur is a wilderness landscape photographer based on the New South Wales Far South Coast, Australia.
Laurie's images may be viewed at http://www.southimage.net/

digital photos printing on a budget

Digital Photos: Printing on a BudgetWriten by Laurie McArthur

We are a two printer family. Yes, we have the good printer and the little printer. The little printer is the budget printer and the subject of this article. Anything that's not critical as regards archival permanence gets printed in the little printer.

While the good printer is for archival, arty work, we bought the little printer for run of the mill printing such as e-mails, small family photos, birthday cards for the grandchildren and the like.

Choosing a Budget Printer

The little printer is an Epson Stylus C45 and prints up to A4 size in full colour. It has two ink cartridges: a black cartridge and a three colour cartridge.

My wife sent me up to the post office to get it about six months ago for $79; Australian dollars, that is. Now they've come down in price to $59.

Other manufacturers market their own budget priced printers. Have a look around and you'll find one to meet your budget.

The reproduction of colour and detail is excellent. What more could you ask for in a budget printer?

Lifespan of a Budget Printer

Now, I don't expect a budget printer to have an enduring lifespan. In a commercial print shop I suppose a week would see it out. But with the amount of work it will get at our place it's reasonable to expect to get years of trouble free budget printing out of it.

Slow Printing

The only downside that I can see is that printing a top quality colour photo is slow. A digital photo printed at A4 size at top quality, takes about 20 minutes. But that's fine if budget is the key word and time is on your side. The important thing is your ability to produce quality, budget, colour photos at home. Of course, you won't be printing A4 all the time.

Ink Cartridge Refilling Process

I make a major saving by refilling my ink cartridges with after market (non genuine) ink. This involves removing some ink from the various coloured ink bottles with a syringe and injecting it into the correct ink tank in the ink cartridge.

The refilling process should not be a messy business provided you take suitable precautions. I put some newspaper on the kitchen table for the refilling process. Between each colour, I wash the syringe in a trickle of water, in a jam jar lid, in the laundry tub.

Obstacles to Ink Cartridge Refilling

In the case of Epson, the manufacturer has tried to beat aftermarket ink producers by designing a chip into the cartridge to tell the printer that an empty cartridge is empty. However, not to be thwarted, the aftermarket ink manufacturer has produced a chip reseter to reset the chip to tell the printer that the refilled ink cartridge is full.

The chip reseter is a small computer type gadget, housed in a plastic case and a little bigger than a matchbox. You simply press the ink cartridge against the pins on the chip reseter, a red light flashes and your refilled ink cartridge is ready to go again; as good as new for a small part of the price of a new ink cartridge. Of course, it's a bit time consuming, but that's how it is with budget systems, isn't it?

With other brands of printer it's much more straightforward. Just whip the empty cartridge out, refill it, put it back in, tell the printer it's got a full ink cartridge and away you go.

Budget Photo Printing Paper

By looking around Ebay for budget priced photo printing paper, I've also kept this expense well within the budget requirements for run of the mill digital photo printing jobs.

Archival Permanence

Although the manufacturers of both the budget ink and the budget printing paper assure me that their products are of a high standard, I would not trust an image requiring archival permanence to my budget printing system. Of course, it may be quite OK. I have no way of knowing.

Warranty

I've had no print head problems with the budget ink, but the possibility exists that you could clog the print head and void your warranty at the same time. I work it out this way:

They sell the printers cheap and make their money on the ink and paper. A black and a colour cartridge cost about a third to a half the cost of a new printer. Bundled with the new printer is a pair of cartridges. If I need to buy a new printer every fifth ink cartridge refill, I'll be in front. But I'm doing better than that.

All on a Budget

Following this budget digital photo printing regime you can be one of those families or singles with photos on the fridge, photos on the TV, photos on the microwave, photos everywhere, all on a budget.

Laurie McArthur is a wilderness landscape photographer based on the New South Wales Far South Coast, Australia.
Laurie's images may be viewed at http://www.southimage.net/

creativity using a compact

Creativity Using a CompactWriten by Eric Hartwell

Its hard to believe but compact cameras can actually aid your photographic skills. I know that there will be plenty of prosumer and especially SLR users that will scoff at the idea, but I believe it to be true.

How could this possible be right? After all, compact cameras are small, lack flexibility and have that dreadful shutter lag which means that the camera will wait a few moments from the time you press the shutter till it takes the picture.

But, none of these are disadvantageous to your development in photography and can, in fact, aid your creativity.

How?

Consider the shutter lag problem. You see a picture you want and press the shutter button only to find that in the time the camera takes to fire the subject has moved. That special expression has been lost.

The problem is that you have suddenly rushed into taking a shot. The same happens with SLR users.

The issue here is anticipation. If you are in a situation where a decent image might be forthcoming (and being around children is always a good option) then try to look at the scene and anticipate the next image. In this way you can be holding your camera and have the shutter button pressed half way, ready and waiting.

Now you are into creative mode. You are now poised and waiting for the right moment, rather than having the right moment thrust upon you. It is creativity like this that makes a good photographer not the equipment he has.

Eric Hartwell runs the photography resource site http://www.theshutter.co.uk and the associated discussion forums as well as the regular weblog at http://thephotographysite.blogspot.com.

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

basic photo composition

Basic Photo CompositionWriten by Mark Rigney

If you pay attention to some simple rules of photographic composition, rather than simply pointing and shooting, you'll begin to notice a significant difference in your snapshots, even the ones you take of family events.

1) Remember, centered photos are boring. Pay attention the next time you're in a movie theater; nothing is ever centered. Follos the rule of thirds - mentally divide the frame into thirds both vertically and horizontally, and place the center of interest (usually your subject's eyes) on one of those 'third lines.'

2) Frame your pictures. If you're taking scenics of a distant lake or mountain, look for an interesting frame. This is no different from framing a photo on your wall. Your frame can be tree branches, rocks, or some other interesting foreground object.

3) When shooting portraits, use the longest zoom setting your camera will allow (without using the digital zoom). Also use the widest aperture (or the lowest f-stop number). This will throw the background into a nice soft focus, drawing your viewer's eyes right to your smiling subject.

4) Look for distractions in the frame. It's hard to learn to do this, because your brain naturally filters out the telephone pole growing out of Uncle Joe's head - but the photo printer won't. Look for objects which will draw your viewer's attention away from your desired center of interest.

Follow these four simple rules, and you'll begin to see a dramatic improvement in your photos!

Mark Rigney has been an entrepeneur and professional photographer for over two decades, and has worked in the film industry as well. Learn more about digital photography at http://digitalcamerapage.com/

Monday, February 23, 2009

avoid skin reflections in your portraits

Avoid Skin Reflections in Your PortraitsWriten by Eric Hartwell

When I use a flashgun I get unsightly reflections form peoples skin. How can I avoid this?

Reflections from the skin of subjects can cause a good deal of bother and ruin the image for the photographer and model. Most times it is caused by harsh light falling on the subject and reflecting back to the camera. It can be made worse by certain skin tones and by types of make-up.

It is easy to reduce this reflection:

-use bounced flash bounce the flash off of the ceiling or use a diffuser card (if your flash is equipped with a swivel head)

-take the flash off camera and hold it to one side or higher

-use a diffuser lens over the flash head (you can make a simple diffuser using a small piece of white cloth or you can buy one)

-tell the subject to move the angle of their head

-for studio lighting, used diffusers or umbrellas compatible with your flash heads

-position the lighting further back to decrease the power hitting the subject

-use theatre make up or ask the subject to change to less troublesome forms of make up

-move the model to a different location (this can help to reduce stray light reflecting from windows etc

These simple measures should be enough to ensure that stray reflected light is kept to a bare minimum or eliminated completely.

Eric Hartwell runs the photography resource site http://www.theshutter.co.uk and the associated discussion forums as well as the regular weblog at http://thephotographysite.blogspot.com

online photo sharing not just for family and vacation photos

Online Photo Sharing: Not Just for Family and Vacation PhotosWriten by Valerie Goettsch

You may have joined the photo-sharing craze to share your family vacation photos, but have you thought about other uses for photo sharing?

Here are just a few ideas:

Scrapbooking:

Show off your creative projects. You can design scrapbook pages and enhance them with clipart using software like Paint Shop Photo Album or FotoFinish and then upload them to a photo sharing site for everyone to enjoy.

Hobbies:

Perhaps you belong to a cross-stitching club or the other end of the spectrum, a motorcycle or classic car club. You can share your best cross-stitch projects or pictures of you with your Harley or 57 Chevy with other club members.

Class Reunions:

What better way to share reunion photos with former class members across the miles than in an online photo album, so all can view and reminisce.

Arts and Crafts Portfolio:

Do you design jewelry, paint or make woodcarvings or other crafts to sell? A digital photo gallery is a great way to show off your pieces, and you can add your own captions, prices, etc.

Genealogy:

If you are in charge of recording your familys history, organize old family photos in a digital album to share with distant family members. Chances are, old photos will need some repair for cracks, fading, spots, etc. You can easily repair photos yourself using photo software like Photoshop Elements or Paint Shop Pro.

School Events:

Create an online album for pictures of football or basketball games, proms, graduation parties and other school events to share with classmates.

Weddings:

You can design an elegant photo album and let those who couldnt attend the wedding see the bride walk down the aisle and virtually experience the conga line at the reception. Weddings were made for photo sharing!

Rubber Stamping Designs:

A photo gallery of your rubber stamp creations is a great way to showcase them for fellow stamp artists.

Okay, you get the picture. Use your imagination and youll find dozens of opportunities for sharing your photos.

PHOTO SHARING SITES AND SOFTWARE

The next step is how do you do it? Thats easy too. With the digital camera craze comes a proliferation of photo sharing sites and software. The top sites include Ofoto, Shutterfly and Snapfish, which give you simple, free software so you can make basic edits such as adjust the contrast, crop and remove red-eye. You can quickly upload your images to their website and put photos in different albums, name the albums and add captions. Then you just email your friends the link to your album. The good news is its free; the down side is that some sites limit the number of photos you can share. These sites, of course, will also print your photos for as little as 22 cents each and mail them to you; those who view your albums can also order prints.

There are some great services dedicated to photo sharing that offer unlimited photo storage space for a nominal fee. These include Pixagogo, which is a web-based service for sharing, organizing and storing your digital photos inside instant albums that can be viewed by anyone you want. It's an easy way to share photos with others, and an excellent means of backing up valuable photos or publishing illustrations on a web site or a market place. For a $5 monthly membership fee, you get unlimited secure storage of your original images of any size for as long as you want. Pixagogo's features include easy drag & drop photo uploading, the ability to create elegant online albums and full screen slide shows, share selected album links with family and friends via a simple email link, and a self-organizing photo timeline. You can also order prints on Fuji paper at competitive prices.

There are also several inexpensive software applications for photo sharing on the web, including FotoFinish and the SendPix sharing feature of ACDSee 6.0. With both programs you can email photos directly from the application at sizes you specify. FotoFinish also gives you 20MB of free personal web space to upload and share your albums or individual photos. ACDSee lets you share up to 50 photos in an unlimited number of albums on their server at no charge for up to 30 days. It also has an HTML photo album generator so you can create web page photo albums to upload to your own site.

Whatever method you choose, sharing your pics on the net is a great timesaver with lots of opportunity for creativity.

Valerie Goettsch publishes the digital photography website http://www.digitalphotos101.com featuring reviews of photo editing and album software and digital photo printing services.

imagine change your views on photographic subjects

Imagine: Change Your Views on Photographic SubjectsWriten by Eric Hartwell

You never need lose the ability to take great and original photographs. Even when you tire of the same routines there is still a myriad of potential images out there - right in front of you.

We all lose the ability to see new and original images from time to time. This could be due to inspirational block for which there are other solutions (see one of my other articles). However, it may be because you have not aught yourself to see images correctly.

Imagine you are walking down a woodland path. You have done the journey several times and taken photographs of all the trees that you see around you, in all weather and through every season. There are no more images, you say, that would be original, new or different.

That's what you say.

Ignore the trees, the undergrowth, the pathway and concentrate on one leaf. Pick it up.

Look at the shape of the leaf; the colors, the patterns. What sort of texture does it have? Is it moist or dry, fresh or aged?

Look even closer - can you see the veins on the undersurface? Can you even see small projections, hairs or attachments? You will be able to make out the stalk of the leaf, the periphery and the size. Study it closely.

Now, hold the leaf up to the sun or sky. See what a difference that makes? The leaf becomes translucent and its quality changes.

Have you discovered any new photo-opportunities with that one leaf? Now, how about two leaves, four leaves, six leave, a hundred leaves? Now add the twigs and branches and then think about the canopy of leaves above you. Look at the patterns of the trees, the types of trees, the undergrowth, sky, paths and ditches. Look for water, birds, debris and people.

How many more inspirational ideas will you be needing?

Eric Hartwell is an enthusiastic photographer. He owns and runs the photography resource site http://www.theshutter.co.uk and the associated discussion forums http://www.theshutter.co.uk/forums as well as the regular weblog at http://thephotographysite.blogspot.com Anyone interested in getting involved contact him at shutter@theshutter.co.uk

setting the stage for nature photographs

Setting the Stage for Nature PhotographsWriten by Sally Stoneking

Slowly I walked up to this small flock of geese. Their colorful feathers glistened in the afternoon sunlight. I was being very careful not to disturb these beautiful creatures of nature.



The four of them walked in unison closer to the wall. They were preparing to take flight if things became too much of a threat from this silver faced bird. I often wonder what I look like to the birds and wildlife I am taking pictures of. They always seem to sit up and take notice, as if to pose just for this photograph opportunity.



I got several pictures and turned to leave them to their daily routine. Then as I turned I thought of something I had told a friend not long ago. I am just going to have to go up to a flock of geese and make them fly off. Then I will get a close enough picture of geese in flight. I am always trying to capture these birds as they fly overhead. But they fly so high and so fast, I am rarely happy with the results.



So here I was with the perfect opportunity. If I held my camera just right, and approached them gently I was hoping they would glide into the river in front of us. I returned to my quiet approach. After all I didnt want to scare the feathers off of them. I walked with my camera in front of me slowly, and just as I had hoped, off they went. One at a time they flew off the wall and into the river. A fellow walker even
stopped so I could get the best photograph possible. It was an exhilarating experience.



When I checked the pictures later I had two excellent shots of the Canadian geese wings as they folded to catch the wind. You can almost count the feathers as they carry those large bodies into the water. Sometimes in nature, you have to set the stage for the photographs you want to take.



Even though I got a good shot, I must say that it could be better. I do admire the work of photographers as they sit for hours sometimes behind a blind (hidden from site) just waiting for the right shot to come along. You have to love nature to want to do that.



But sometimes little tricks like a bird feeder on your patio or in your back yard can attract wildlife closer for your own nature pictures. I certainly prefer sitting in my kitchen waiting for the birds to come to me. Okay so I am a little lazy, but I do love taking pictures of nature and flowers.



I remember the picture I lost of an owl swooping down to capture a newborn duckling one spring. And another that flew off from his perch when he decided I had taken enough pictures of him. It certainly does not pay to get too excited when you are taking pictures of birds in flight.

Sally Stoneking is an enthusiastic photographer and digital art dabbler. Owner of Nature and Flower Pictures where you can share in her enthusiasm for taking pictures and creating art. Visit http://www.nature-and-flower-pictures.com for a full selection of pictures to download. Join Nature Tales for more tips and tricks in nature photographs.

Sunday, February 22, 2009

how to take better photos of your baby or toddler

How to Take Better Photos of Your Baby or ToddlerWriten by Amanda Compton

Every Mom wants to take great photos of their babies and toddlers. We all want professional looking photos for our children without paying a fortune! This better baby photo article will help you take the best photos you can and you don't even have to own an expensive camera.

When I had my first baby 4 years ago, I became extremely interested in photography. I wanted to capture every precious moment and every important milestone on film. I am sure you are just like me in wanting to take these same precious photos of your baby or toddler. I now use a digital camera and take professional looking photos everyday of my 2 little boys from these 5 simple tips below. These 5 tips will help you take better baby and toddler photos.

1.) The first tip I suggest is to be aware of the lighting. The best place to take photos is outside in a natural setting. You should take photos early in the morning or late in the evening right before the sun sets. Remember to use your flash for fill flash outside. This lighting produces stunning results!

2.) The second tip I suggest is to get closer to your baby or toddler and get down to their level. Never photograph your baby or toddler from above.

3.) The third tip I suggest is to make the setting/background simple. Try to place your child near a simple or plain background.

4.) The fourth tip I suggest is to take lots and lots of photos. The more photos you take, the more photos you will have to choose from. You may just get lucky with an adorable one of a kind photo of your baby! You may capture the perfect moment! So, never stop taking pictures!

5.) Invest in a good digital camera. It doesnt have to be an expensive digital camera. You can buy a good digital camera for under $300. I use an inexpensive Kodak digital camera and great photos of my baby every time.

You are now on your way to taking better baby and toddler photos.

Copyright 2005 All Rights Reserved
About The Author: Amanda Compton is a work at home mom to 2 little boys. She owns and publishes a fun site for Babies and Moms, http://www.ContestForMoms.com featuring a free baby photo contest, mom forums, and lots of baby & mom information!

Feel free to re-print this article provided that all hyperlinks and author biography are kept as-is

Saturday, February 21, 2009

sometimes its the image itself not the quality that matters

Sometimes It's the Image Itself, Not the Quality, That MattersWriten by Eric Hartwell

Why do you take pictures? I was recently in discussions on a photographic forum about the reasons. We were reviewing images sent in by the members. There was a lot of constructive criticism which was very useful. But the discussions revolved around producing the best images and how to improve failing ones.

Quite frankly, some images were being castigated as not only not good enough, but also not right for uploading to the online gallery.

How silly.

I am a strong believer that the worth of any image is totally depended on the perception of the person who takes it. It doesnt matter about the quality so much, although, clearly, this is an important factor.

Some people take photographs for the emotional context. Images can remind you of times gone by, of childhood memories. They can remind you of a special occasion, an unforgettable trip and, particularly, a special person.

Searching through past images can bring a certain time and / or place to life. It can be a chance to relive memories that would otherwise be lost in time. Images can evoke laughter, tears and feelings of love. They can transport you to another world and era. Not many things can do that.

A friend I was taking to had some images online. There were nice but not outstanding. But for him, they evoked feelings and memories of a time and a place that was special and had a certain import for him. He was able to recount the story of why he took them. There was no talk of f-stops, apertures and ISO settings. No lens judgements or white balance discussion. They were his memories but the sharing of the story behind the images could be shared and felt by all. Just like the story behind an old antique.

Make your photography your own. By personalising it you will still be able to improve but you will retain those special connections with each image. The power of those connections can be as valuable as the images themselves.

Eric Hartwell runs the photography resource site http://www.theshutter.co.uk and the associated discussion forums as well as the regular weblog at http://thephotographysite.blogspot.com

Friday, February 20, 2009

the amazing light painting technique

The Amazing Light Painting TechniqueWriten by Steve McArthur

Light painting is a term that I had never heard of until a few days ago. I was looking at a few photos on a photo web site, and I must say that I am amazed at the quality of some of the photos that were exhibited there.

Especially interesting to me was a set of pictures taken by a photographer that had the look of the old world Dutch master painters. The Light painting is just fantastic and the end result is most appealing. You can view some examples at PhotoZoomy.com.

The execution of Light Painting is actually very simple, although getting good results maybe a bit more exacting. First, set up a table with a dark cloth backdrop. Next, arrange your still life objects. Set up your camera on a tripod and focus on your objects with all the lights on.

Turn the lights off after you set your shutter speed to around 20 seconds. Click the shutter. Shine a flashlight on different parts of your objects that you want to highlight for about 2 seconds on each spot.

After 20 seconds you will have your Light Painted photo. This is of course is a very simplistic explanation of Light Painting and you will probably have to take 20 or 30 pictures to get it right, but it gives you the basic idea of how it works.

Light Painting Examples



Photography Training Manual

Thursday, February 19, 2009

get that candid

Get that Candid!Writen by Eric Hartwell

Taking candids can be great fun! The lure of the chase and the unexpected images resulting from it will keep you amused for hours. But taking a successful picture can be a bit tricky. Follow these simple rules to enhance your rewards:

- be prepared for anything: things have a habit of happening just when you least expect it



- have your camera with you always: without your equipment there will be no shot


- watch people: their actions and expressions are what you are trying to capture


- be bold: to get that shot you need to be there in the thick of things


- be watchful: almost anyone can be the subject of candids


- snap first, think later: the chance will pass you by if you let it


- set a fast shutter: either your subject or you might be moving


- use remote control if needed: this way, you can appear inconspicuous for some of your shots


- act quickly: blink your eye and your moment is lost


- use a long lens: isolate you and your subject



Many photographers fail with candids through their shyness. Whilst it can be difficult to shoot candids, the more you try, the better it feels. Most subjects dont mind you taking their photograph even if you are caught doing it.

Eric Hartwell runs the photography resource site http://www.theshutter.co.uk and the associated discussion forums as well as the regular weblog at http://thephotographysite.blogspot.com

tips on finding a los angeles photographer

Tips On Finding A Los Angeles PhotographerWriten by Christopher Luck

How do you find a Los Angeles Photographer for that special occasion at a price I can afford? As if moving to Los Angeles isnt difficult enough in and of itself, there is always the hassle of getting things done when you dont know anyone to cope with. So to find a Los Angeles Photographer, or any other service for that matter, in the town, there are some steps I always take to make sure I get what I want at the price I want.


When it comes to service providers, like a Los Angeles photographer, the first step you should do is to figure out exactly what you want. In the case of a Los Angeles photographer, you will need to determine whether you are going to have portraits done, candid photos as a party, or formal pictures and portraits at an event like a wedding or graduation. Once you determine what exactly you need out of a Los Angeles photographer, you will have an easier time looking for someone who fits your specific needs.


Next, you need to do your homework. Get out your yellow pages and look up photographers. It seems like an elementary way of locating a good Los Angeles photographer, but it is a necessity to get started. Find a few that look good to you based on the ad and what it looks like they specialize in. Once you have scoured your yellow pages thoroughly, check out the internet. Look up Los Angeles photographers in a search engine or business directory and look for more places you can check out. Also, you may want to look up the ones you have chosen from the yellow pages to see if they have a website. Often the sites have sample photos, portfolios, and the like which can help you to make an informed decision about the photographer that will work best for you.


Last comes the calls. Once you have narrowed your list of Los Angeles photographers down, you should start making calls. Talk to the photographer, find out about availability, find out about prices, and get a feel for the business. You want someone you feel comfortable with, so it is okay to just go a little bit on gut feeling. In addition, you should ask about additional services, like video or album creation. Once you have talked to all of the photographers on your list you will likely have a fairly easy time making your decision. Choose someone you have confidence in and feel comfortable with and you wont go wrong.


Moving to a new city can be incredibly difficult. Having to find a service provider in that city, then, can be equally as daunting. However, finding a Los Angeles photographer or any other services provider doesnt have to be that bad. By taking three simple steps, you will have done your homework and be able to book a photographer that meets your needs at the price you are looking for. Take your time and work with confidence and you will find your Los Angeles photographer in no time.

If you would like to find more of my personal articles on california photographers please check out my website on photographers!

my sunsets appear flat

My Sunsets Appear FlatWriten by Eric Hartwell

When I shoot a sunset, it never appears as it does in the viewfinder. The orange and red colours consistently appear dull and lifeless. What am I doing wrong?

The answer here is white balance. Every scene you shoot has an array of colours. Ideally, you wish to capture what the eye sees. However you camera may make automatic adjustments to the final image.

Many cameras have automatic white balance set. This means that the camera will average out the colours in the scene to ensure that the extremes of normal are removed. In most situations this is not a problem.

In some scenes, you will have excesses of colour which the camera interprets as an imbalance but which the eye considers acceptable.

With a sunset, you have an excess of reds, oranges and yellows. Your camera tries to make adjustments for this as it sees the scene as too warm. So you end up with muted colours and a drab sunset.

The answer is to set the white balance to manual. Choosing the daylight setting will ensure your daytime images appear as they are seen by you. Similarly, you can set for cloudy, indoor or flash to retain the intended colour casts and mixes

Eric Hartwell runs the photography resource site http://www.theshutter.co.uk and the associated discussion forums as well as the regular weblog at http://thephotographysite.blogspot.com.

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

digital or film

Digital Or Film?Writen by TJ Tierney

Having lost count of the number of people who have asked me: have you gone digital? I am always left wondering why its such a much-asked question. The camera is only a tool in which a photographer creates an image. His personal ability to create a unique image remains the same.

For many forms of photography, digital has long held obvious advantages, but for landscapes the resolution necessary to make larger prints just wasnt available. But things have changed and digital cameras are fast becoming the tools that most pros use.

Modern digital cameras are perfectly capably of matching the 35 mm film - the format which most landscape photographers begin with. But can they really match the large format film cameras? This is probably the greatest question that all photographers face.

Instant LCD feedback is digitals greatest gift and this enables the photographer to check exposure and composition of their image in the blink of an eye. While this is a big advantage, the hours spent in front of the computer processing the raw images have to be hindrance. A landscape photographers time is best spent behind a camera not in front of a computer.

The pros and cons of digital photography will remain an issue for some time. At the end of the day a digital camera wont make a photographers images better. The same values we apply in our photography should remain regardless of which camera we use.

Good photography remains as elusive and as enticing as it ever was; going digital doesnt change this or make getting good images any easier. It brings technical advantages, and plenty of them, but the majority of photographic techniques never change. Good landscape images come from the photographers personal ability, not the ability of a camera. The camera helps, but the creative eye remains the same.

As a landscape photographer I am still hesitant to embrace digital photography and all the qualities that digital has brought to other professionals in different photography fields.

There are a few simple reasons that I still use a film camera:
The authenticity of my images could be questioned if I used a digital camera. It is often assumed that great digital images have been manipulated.
Too much time is spent in front of a computer.
Slide film produce stronger colours than a digital camera.

There are many advantages for changing to digital but Im going to stick with film; for the time-being that is. With time film cameras will be a thing of the past and all our images will be exchanged for the pixels. But, be wary - believing our work will be superior would be falling into a great trap. For me size matters, the larger I can print an image the better.

TJ Tierney is an award winning Irish Landscape photographer and a freelance writer.
He frequently writes for the shopping directory http://www.shop-4us.com and the photography directory http://www.goldprints.com.
To view or buy some of his images visit his on line gallery @ http://www.goldenirishlight.com.

advantages of using a dedicated film scanner for your negatives

Advantages of Using a Dedicated Film Scanner for Your NegativesWriten by Kimberly Rentler

Permission to publish this article granted electronically
or in print, free of charge, as long as the bylines are
included. A courtesy copy of your publication would be
appreciated.

Film Scanning has become a necessary piece of equipment for
the digital darkroom that enables the photographer to
continue to shoot pictures the traditional way with film and
slides. The scanner allows you to convert the film to
digital files and take advantage of the use of software
editing, enhnancing and publishing. There are some clear
advantages to using a dedicated film Scanner over a flatbed
scanner when scanning film or slide negative transparencies.
Both a film scanner and flatbed scanner operate using a
light source and sensors that scan through the transparency.

A dedicated film scanner utilizes a transmissive light
source while a flatbed scanner uses a reflective light
source. A transmissive light source is a direct linear light
source that reflects through the transparency. A reflective
light also shines through the transparency, however it is
contained or diffused under the glass bed of the scanner and
relected off another surface. This is the lid or top surface
of the flatbed scanner. The result is greater density and
clarity scanned from the transmissive light from a dedicated
film scanner. Current higher quality flatbed scanners offer
transparency and negative holders and often include an
additional light source on the lid to mimic the transmissive
light.

However, the ultimate operation of a flatbed scanner
is still very similar to that of a copy machine. Although
some may see an advantage in the flatbed scanner to scan
batch negatives or slides quickly, the disadvantge becomes
the ability to customize each individual slide or negative
that may have different densities or exposure. With a
dedicated film scanner, you have the ability to expose or
scan each frame at varying degrees of resolutions and
corrections. Most dedicated film scanners also offer the
batch feature as well. Two main components are essential for
a quality scan: resolution and dynamic range. Resolution is
the mesurement of pixels the scanner can capture within the
scan. Dynamic range is the degree of tonality that is
captured within the scan.

Most dedicated film scanners offer
dynamic ranges greater than 3.6 with 0, the purest white and
4.0, the deepest black. While flatbed scanners have improved
greatly in the past few years with higher resolutions, you
must be careful on those claiming very high resolutions.
This is often interpolated resolution or in simple terms,
the scanner guesses on the number of pixels rather than
contain the true optical pickup of pixels in the film
scanning process.

Author: Kimberly Rentler Copyright, 2005
Owner of a Film, Photo and Slde Scanning Service at
http://filmnfile.com This site also offers more scanning
information and a forum to discuss photography.
email at inquiries@filmnfile.com

Tuesday, February 17, 2009

im only human

I'm Only HumanWriten by Kenneth C. Hoffman

As a photographer, some tasks would seem to be a pleasure to perform, but one such task was fraught with danger. One day I got a call from a good client who needed me to photograph a woman for a large pastel portrait. This artist possessed a great talent for capturing naturalness in a body pose, but admittedly felt less than secure drawing faces and expressions.

This thirty by forty-eight inch pastel portrait was to hang over her boyfriends bed to remind him of her love for him. His only request was that she appear in the nude!

On the day of the shoot, the artist and I waited in the living room/ studio for the subject to arrive. In walks the most beautiful woman I have ever seen. Tall and willowy, her feminine curves were impossible to hide beneath her severe office clothes. A natural blonde with light brown eyes, her skin glowed with a California tan. After the introductions, I readied the camera and lights while the subject started to take off her clothes. Almost as an after thought, she brought out a photograph of an oil painting of a reclining nude painted by a classic artist in the sixteen hundreds. She pointed out that the skin of the model in the oil portrait shone with lustrous highlights and glowed as if rubbed in oil. This was the very effect that her boyfriend requested she duplicate.

I took the artist aside and discussed the problem. No filter I knew of could reproduce such an effect on her skin. The artist decided that I would have to cover the subjects skin with baby oil to create the desired glow. Meanwhile, the subject had stretched out on the chaise lounge we had set up with patterned tapestry velour throws forming the background. The artist went to get the oil as I tried a few poses with the subject. When she returned, she handed me the baby oil with a smirk on her face, ready to burst out laughing if I even so much as raised an eyebrow. Somebody had to do it, so I started rubbing the oil on the nudes body, not missing an inch of skin in the process. The artist hovered in the shadows, trying to look like the cool chaperone, but not meeting my eyes when I looked at her. The subject stoically remained silent as I bent to my task. Up one side and down the other, then flip her over and do the other side.

Finally, the oiling was done and, after thoroughly washing my hands, I proceeded to photograph the subject. Four weeks later, the finished pastel occupied a center spot on the artists wall, a hidden spotlight enhancing the glowing colors of the beautiful woman in the picture. Since no one was allowed to see the picture except for the subject and her boyfriend, I convinced the artist into allowing me to photograph the finished work for her portfolio. A few days later, the subject picked up the portrait, never to be seen again except in my (unrequited) dreams.

No two days were alike in the portrait profession.

understanding redeye in photos and how it can be prevented

Understanding Red-Eye in photos and how it can be preventedWriten by Ziv Haparnas

Why are eyes red in photos?

Red-eye is a phenomenon that happens only when taking photos using a flash. When taking photos in day light or when in high ambient light scenarios peoples eyes look normal. When taking pictures in low ambient light scenarios using a flash the result many times is redness in the peoples eyes.

The reason for the color red is simple when flash light from the camera hits the eyes it penetrates and is reflected back from the retina. The color of the reflected light is red because the light is actually reflected from the red blood in the retina.

In some scenarios the red-eye is evident while in others it is mild or doesnt seem to appear at all. One of the main factors for that is the state of the pupils. If the pupils are dilated (for example the pupils dilate in darkness or when drinking alcohol) more light is reflected back from the retina and the eyes in the photo appear redder.

Common way to reduce red-eye

The most commonly used method to reduce red-eye is activating the cameras built-in red-eye reduction feature. The red-eye reduction feature is very simple yet effective. When turned on the camera shoots a series of pre-flash strobes followed by one more strobe when actually taking the photo. The pre-flash strobes cause the pupils to reduce in size and by the time the photo is taken the pupils are small enough for the eye redness to substantially reduce.

The red-eye reduction feature does what it is supposed to do: reduce the red-eye effect but almost never is it completely prevented. There are many limitations to this feature for example pupils reaction time to light can vary. In addition this feature can have a side-effect that results in photos having peoples eyes closed. The reason is that the pre-flash strobes blind the people and cause them to close their eyes.

Other ways to prevent red-eye

Understanding what causes red-eye helps being more creative in preventing it. Following are some ways to prevent red-eye other than using the built-in camera red-eye reduction feature:

Increasing the light where photos are taken (for example by turning on the lights in a room before taking photos of people) causes peoples pupils to reduce in size and eye redness to reduce.

Point the flash away from the eyes. Since red-eye is caused by flash light reflected from the retina the best way to prevent red-eye would be to eliminate such reflection as much as possible. In most cameras the angle between the flash and the lenses is narrow (this is especially true for built-in flash and pocket cameras) causing most of the flash to bounce back from the retina to the lenses. Increasing the angle (for example by using an external flash) reduces the reflected light. You can also use a bounce flash by having the flash light bounce off a bright surface (a white wall or a professional reflector) most of the direct reflection from the retina can be eliminated.

Red-eye can also be removed after photos were already taken by using photo processing software on your PC. Most digital cameras include a CD with PC software that embeds this feature. Although this method doesnt eliminate the red-eye from the source it can result in a practically red-eye free photo. Some software are better than others some are manual while others automatically identify the red-eyes and process that area to revert to normal eye colors.

Ziv Haparnas is a technology veteran and writes about practical technology and science issues. This article can be reprinted and used as long as the resource box including the backlink is included. You can find more information about photo album printing and photography in general on http://www.printrates.com - a site dedicated to photo printing

do you remember your first photo

Do You Remember Your First Photo?Writen by Eric Hartwell

It doesn't matter what age you are, what you do or where you live. It doesn't matter what camera you had or how much it cost. Never mind if it was a SLR, compact or Box Brownie.

You will always remember your first shots.

Getting your first camera is one of the most exciting feelings in this world. Suddenly you have the ability to capture images from around you - images that are your sole creation. And you can show them off to anyone who cares to see them.

Although it was many years ago, I still remember my first camera: a Zenit E - built like a tank and with an exposure meter build from spare car parts. But it was, for me, a dream to own my own camera at last. The touch, the feel, the smell .....

Loading the first film was such an exciting moment. Shaking with anticipation, and with the instruction manual lying unused on the floor, the color film was eventually loaded and I was ready to go.

For me, my initial images were taken within but a few feet. The house cat became a supermodel and the tabby was snapped from all angles - at least until the 36 exposures were completed.

Five days from that heady time witnessed the delivery of the fruits of my labour. Thirty six cats - many unfocussed, most poorly exposed, yet all treasured even to this day.

Do you also remember your first time? It may have been your cat, dog, loved one. Or perhaps your home, street or the nearest flower. You wouldn't share the images today - they would be criticised and ridiculed. But those early shots began your photographic journey which will have continued till this day.

No, you won't share the images. But you might share the memory

Eric Hartwell is an enthusiastic photographer. He owns and runs the photography resource site http://www.theshutter.co.uk and the associated discussion forums http://www.theshutter.co.uk/forums as well as the regular weblog at http://thephotographysite.blogspot.com Anyone interested in getting involved contact him at shutter@theshutter.co.uk

becoming a digital artist on a budget

Becoming A Digital Artist On A BudgetWriten by John Deprice

So, you want to become a digital artist but paying several hundred dollars for Photoshop seems too much. Don't worry, there are dozens of very inexpensive tools you can use available on the Internet.

Icon Constructor

Icon Constructor converts BMP, JPEG, GIF, PNG, PSD, TGA and TIFF formats into Windows icons. You can find many images on the Internet and convert them to icons for use on your Windows desktop, in applications and much more. The program supports Windows XP icons in 32-bit color depth with an alpha channel; now you can create semi-transparent XP icons easily. With just a few clicks, any image you find on the Internet or create in a paint program can be turned into an icon. Plus, proprietary FriendlyLINK technology allows creating icons using pictures of your friends and family.

Free Download: http://www.deprice.com/iconconstructor.htm

Pics Print

Pics Print has a built-in photo editor that lets you crop, resize, rotate, and color-correct images. Users who enjoy adding artistic effects to their photos can blur, emboss, and sharpen the images, add borders, and produce an unlimited variety of creative touches. There is even a red-eye remover that takes out the red circles that the camera's flash often adds to portraits.

You can create instant greeting cards with Pics Print's card wizard. Simply select an image, add text, and print. Using the built-in templates, or templates which you create yourself, you can create family album pages, sales sheets, and any kind of printed pages in just a few minutes. In addition to that, Pics Print lets you create huge posters that are up to 20 sheets tall and 20 sheets wide.

Free Download: http://www.deprice.com/picsprint.htm

Acoustica CD/DVD Label Maker

Why let the record studio artists have all the fun? Create your own CD/DVD labels and jewel cases with the ultimate in ease and flexibility. If you have CDs or DVDs with no cover and are sick of guessing what songs are on what CD, get the label maker that automatically puts your track list on your CD/DVD label.

Acoustica CD/DVD Label Maker comes with a chock full of custom art for holidays and special occasions like Christmas, Valentines, birthdays, vacations, weddings and more. You don't need to be a real artist or designer to user the software.

The software automatically imports your track information from Acoustica MP3 CD Burner, iTunes, WinAmp, Easy CD Creator or any other popular play list or previously burnt CD. Print the cover on standard paper or stock sticker labels and jewel case templates for more professinal-looking results.

Free Download: http://www.deprice.com/acousticacddvdlabelmaker.htm

John Deprice maintains a vast collection of software for amateur digital artists and designers. All software is available for free download at http://www.deprice.com/design.htm

the print is the performance so much heat so little light

The Print is the Performance - So Much Heat, So Little LightWriten by Henry Bateman

The American master of photography, Ansel Adams, said The negative is comparable to the composer's score, and the print to its performance. That holds true today as much as it did when first uttered. Although in the digital age the discussion about the print generates more heat than light.

Artists have been producing prints for eons using a variety of techniques. Etching, lithograph, mezzotint and more recently serigraph (the fancy name for silk screen printing) have been used by the likes of Rembrandt through to Warhol. Each used the best technology available to them to transfer their ideas on to their chosen paper support.

Today in the 21st Century as the internal combustion engine has replaced the horse and buggy as a preferred means of transport so digital printing has replaced its predecessors. From the glicee to the home printer the quality and the supports available has blossomed in the past few years. Now artists and photographers can print on canvas, watercolour paper and papers specially designed to compliment the technology to mention a few.

The quality of their prints will rival if not surpass those that have gone before, even those printed on the humble home printer. Yes, it will change its appearance over time but then, so will an oil painting. The occupation of painting conservation is a long and honourable one.

One web site I visited whilst researching this article offered a life time guarantee against fading. Great marketing hype and a pretty safe bet. Fading will happen very slowly and over a considerable length of time. What you will compare the fading against if you even notice it has me beat.

Pollution, ultra violet light and changes in temperature extract their toll on any artefact. If a few common sense precautions are taken, your grand children will be admiring your choices as they contemplate their mid life crisis. Protect them from accidental damage, framed under glass is a good bet. Keep them out of harsh light and extremes of temperature, your cars dashboard is not a good place for any work of art, not too good for anything come to think about it.

If purchasing via the internet a no questions asked right of return for your purchase if it doesnt meet expectations is reasonable. The item you hold in your hand will differ from what you saw on the screen. For starters it is a different medium, ink rather than light and a monitors calibration will vary in accord with its users preferences. What you see on your screen is bound to be different to what I am seeing.

With a myriad of printing choices out there today, there are many ways a print may strut its stuff. That it will do so for an acceptable length of time is a given. The life of the subject matter you choose is an entirely different question.

Henry Bateman is an artist/photographer and his work can be seen at http://www.pissedpoet.com

Monday, February 16, 2009

take a candid await the response

Take a Candid: Await the ResponseWriten by Eric Hartwell

There are times when you try to take a candid photo of someone that you dont know, that you get that cold look. A look of defiance and unrest. You have been caught. That person has noticed that you are trying to snap them and they just dont like it. They may even speak to you about it.

It can feel uncomfortable for both parties.

But, at other times, even when you know the subject has seen you, you can snap away unhindered. It is even, at times, as though the subject is enjoying the attention. Or perhaps, they feel too awkward to respond and complain.

In real life, most people, I believe, would enjoy seeing images of themselves. Even at times when we feel mightily unsettled, there is something special about having a record of your image to look at in future times. Images can be very emotive reminding you of times, people and places.

But, some people can only feel this if they re in control of the process if they give permission and if they invite the photographer in. Candids, of the type described above, means that the photographer is in control in control of the taking of the image AND its disposal.

The photographer has invaded the private and personal world of the subject. Who knows what the outcome might be.

Eric Hartwell runs the photography resource site http://www.theshutter.co.uk and the associated discussion forums as well as the regular weblog at http://thephotographysite.blogspot.com.

Sunday, February 15, 2009

which iso setting should i use

Which ISO Setting Should I Use?Writen by Eric Hartwell

What ISO setting should you use for everyday photography?

There is no simple answer, but have a look at the following responses to decide what is best for you:

I usually use ISO 100, but if I realise I cant hold the camera still I increase the ISO or use a tripod

I most usually shoot at ISO 100, 200 and occasionally ISO 400. It annoys me that there is slight noise when I zoom on the PC. In reality you won't see it

I start at 100, and work up until I get a reasonable shutter speed that I feel I can cope with

I set the camera at 200 in good weather and 400 in bad

In bad light I dont go below 400

Inside, I start at 400, then go to 800 or more when needed. Outside I start at 100

If I tend to get camera shake I increase the ISO till everything is OK

In fully automatic mode my camera does this itself

I find I use 100 rarely. I prefer to go for a higher ISO to get faster shutter speeds

So, you can see that the ISO setting is dependent upon the conditions and upon personal preferences. Experiment to find the settings that work best for you.

Eric Hartwell runs the photography resource site http://www.theshutter.co.uk and the associated discussion forums as well as the regular weblog at http://thephotographysite.blogspot.com

dreamy studio backgrounds made easy

Dreamy Studio Backgrounds Made EasyWriten by Kenneth C. Hoffman

So youve got your basement studio all set up with lights, camera, tripod and a plain white background. Great. Wouldnt it be terrific if you could add one of those beautiful muslin backgrounds you see in the catalogs and used
by the big studios? Yeah, right. Seven hundred dollars for one. Heres a method to make a background of your own design at a cost of under twenty dollars.

First decide how you would like your background to look. Find a greeting card or postcard you like. It could be a forest of trees with sunlight slanting to the ground, a quiet lake scene, pine trees under a new fall of snow, an old fashioned garden in France or even a picture of yours that you love.

Make a slide or viewgraph transparency of your selection and prepare the surface for the artwork. An old king-sized sheet will do very nicely or you can use the wall itself. If using the sheet, stretch it firmly on the wall and project the transparency on it. Make sure the projector is firmly supported and square to the wall. Mark the position with tape in case it moves. Using a charcoal stick, trace in all the edges of the picture on the wall. If a removeable background is desired, stretch a king size white or light gray or beige sheet on the wall. Make sure it is firmly attached since you w will be drawing on it later.

Buy a gallon of white ceiling paint (for its matte surface) and some tubes of color. Mix enough paint of the needed colors in a few plastic buckets. With a two inch brush, paint the picture on the wall, using the photograph as a guide. You dont have to be an artist since the rendition should be loose and a water color like representation of the chosen subject. Avoid using black or very dark colors and tone down any brightly hued colors with white or gray paint. If the scene is to portray a high key effect, one further step is recommended. Mix some white paint with an equal amount of water and roll or brush on a semi transparent layer over the dry painting.

If a more classic look is wanted, you may skip the transparency and paint right on the sheet or wall. Start in the lower center with beige and light gray
and work your way toward the edges, mixing the colors on the wall using veridian/brown, alarizen red/brown and brown/dark blue. These colors are sure to compliment skin tones. Use a four inch brush with either a diagonal stroke for the whole background or a quarter moon shaped overlapping brush stroke. Work fast, using the darker colors toward the edges. One warning: never go back to correct an effect after the paint has partially dried. One advantage of the classic background is that the edges can be extended around the corners of the room, allowing larger subjects to be photographed. The character of your unusual and beautiful background will be limited only by your imagination.

My home made backgrounds were so much in demand, other studios paid me $400 to paint one on their studio wall.

Saturday, February 14, 2009

make more of your photos

Make More of Your PhotosWriten by Sally Kavanagh

We all want to make the most of our wedding photos and a new service from totalPIX makes it very easy with their beautifully bound photobooks.

Like all the best ideas, the idea of a photobook is very simple. Until now if you wanted to compile your own wedding album you first needed to get your photos printed. Unless you have a very expensive photo-quality printer, this meant getting them printed professionally either online or at a local photography outlet. Then they had to be put in the album and any captions you wanted either hand written or printed out and then added to the pages.

With a totalPIX photobook, you simply download the totalPIX software which includes several wedding templates, drag and drop your photos onto the template, add your captions and then upload everything to totalPIX.

A couple of days later, so long as you are in the UK, your photobook will arrive through the post, carefully packaged in perfect condition.

As commercial litho and digital printers, totalPIX have the latest Kodak digital presses so that every single photo, however small, is printed as though it were part of a half million run mail order catalogue. In fact the look and quality of the internal pages of a photobook is quite similar to the best catalogues although of course the binding is attractive and durable as befits a wedding book that will last a lifetime.

Very often we have different types of wedding photos, there are the formal ones, with everyone demur and poised at the church or registry office and these make a wonderful souvenir of the day. But often there are more informal images we want to keep, perhaps of the party afterwards or just simply wonderful photos that capture a special moment or expression. With totalPIX photobooks, theres no problem. Create a formal photobook of the day for that special momento and another more informal one that perhaps gives more of the atmosphere of the occasion. And what about a record of the stag and hen nights, or perhaps not!

The ability to add captions makes a photobook very personal. Add the names of guests, the date and venue, whatever is important to you.

Photobooks can be ordered in any quantity from one upwards, and once you have the finished photobook on your computer, so long as you do not delete it, you can re-send it to totalPIX at any time for extra copies for friends and relations.

A major feature of the totalPIX photobook service is its ease of use. If you can use a digital camera, you will find creating a photobook a doddle. The software includes a basic image cropping and manipulation tool if you do not have one already installed. As a precaution against a poor outcome, the software will only accept photos that have the quality and resolution to print well, after all the best press in the world cannot create an award winning image from a poor quality one.

For full details of totalPIX wedding photobooks, please visit us at www.totalpix.co.uk

Sally Kavanagh is a keen digital photographer and is an advisor to totalPIX

keep a digital photos diary

Keep a Digital Photos DiaryWriten by Edwin Neo

Digital Photo Diary - memories that last a life time

The best things in life come in threes, like friends, dreams, and memories.

A digital photo diary keeps some of the big and little memories of our life. With it, you can look back on these pictures, and appreciate the richness of our past.

Let's look at a easy and effective way to keep a digital photo diary:

Get a easy to carry, point-and-click digital camera

The key is to have a cameras when you want to capture the moment. Portability is more important than image quality. Also, remember to set the date & time on your cameras.

choose a site for store your digital photos online

MyPhotoAlbum.com seems to be a good choice at this moment:

MyPhotoAlbum.com let you choose your own look for your digital photo albums from its professionally designed styles. It also allows free and unlimited storage space.

Over here, you can personalize your online photo album using easy to remember, Internet address such as http://yourname.myphotoalbum.com

Take a few pictures every day

Make it a habit to take at least 1 picture every day. Take a picture of your son's drawings, or even the tree outside your house. It does not have to have professinoal quality, just something to show what your day was like. While it might seem boring, you would be pleasantly surprise thatwhen you relook at these pictures later.

Upload your picture to your online album regularly - says, once a week.

Remeber to add a few words to describe the photo. Do keep it easy and simple. Do not write an essay for each photo.

See you digital diary grow

Over time, you'll see your digital diary grow and become quite interesting.

Archive your digital diary

I always recommend that you burn your diary to CDs or DVDs. I usually burn it to at least 2 CDs or DVDs: Just to ensure that my memories will be safe for many years to come.

Other ways to share your digital diary

If you have a personal web site, you may post your digital diary on it. Making a hardcover photobook is also a great way to share it with others.

Digital photography should be fun! At digital-photos-fun.com, you'll find tips and guides on how to further enrich your photography experience.

Friday, February 13, 2009

selling photos locally 5

Selling Photos Locally (5)Writen by Keith Jones

As Selling stock photos is a long term investment,you'll need an instant income.
You can make quite a lot of cash photographing local events,parties,functions
and of course weddings and Christenings.
(I even photographed a funeral once - by request !)
Portrait and child photography is fairly lucrative but you'll have lots of competition
from those units that set up in major supermarkets.

Estate agents always need photographs of outside and inside properties and you can also offer a panoramic service using stitching software to give a better impressionof the interior of a house or office.These sell for around $1200.00 for enough photos to make a small foldout brochure.
Aerial photography is popular but you'll have to fund the flight costs and then get them back from the customer.
Building Site stage construction photography is a nice addition to your income.
With this you photograph from the same spot a series of photos to show the property owner or the builder what is happening to their site. It can also be used to show local
authorities what is happening without the need for a field trip.

Talking of local authorities, most Local Authorities need photos for community projects and events so it's well worthwhile networking with government officers to get
to know whats happening.

Local newspapers ALWAYS need photographs - but the money is usually not great ... unless you hit on a major incident
(but really regular so it is worth taking !) ALWAYS take a notebook and several pens
as you'll need to get people's names correct.
When I did this I always took along a digital recorder and got the people to spell their names for me.

Resource Section :
Keith Jones has been a Stock and Travel Photographer for over 40 years
His Website is at http://www.fotos4web.com
Where you'll find lots of his photos and articles.
This article may be freely reproduced in print or on the world wide web providing : This resource section is also published intact and the article is not altered in any way.

take your photo but avoid common pitfalls 2

Take Your Photo: But Avoid Common Pitfalls #2Writen by Eric Hartwell

Finding that your images are blurred can be a real disappointment especially if you have gone to some lengths to get the shot you wanted or if the shot would have had some value for you or someone else.

Blurred images, as well as being common, are also difficult, even with digital cameras, to see at the picture taking stage. The small LCD screen on most digital cameras can make even blurred images appear to be sharp, especially if there is a lot of ambient light making the screen difficult to visualise.

Sometimes, it is only when you see your images on the computer screen that you realise that the pictures are blurred. Then it is too late.

Here's how to avoid blurred images:

1. Prepare yourself beforehand: know what shot you are going to take, how and when. Make sure you are in control of your camera settings and that you keep the subjects (where appropriate) under some sort of control. In this way you will avoid hurriedly taken shots.

2. Focus accurately: it may sound simple, but even automatic focussing can be beset with difficulties - know where your camera is focussing (centre, off-centre) and how the mechanism works; ensure there is enough light to focus with and avoid focussing on flat or highly reflective surfaces

3. Get the eyes!: in any sort of portrait or group shot, the eyes are the most important part - a subject with out of focus eyes wil look abnormal and less appealing

4. Correct your shutter speed: if you use a slow shutter speed (less than 1/60th second) then you will be at risk of blur from camera shake.

5. Consider flash: if there is fast action or movement, especially in lower light, you will get movement blur - use your flash to freeze the subject

6. Think about manual: most cameras can shoot quite happily on automatic mode, but sometimes it is wise to change to semi-automatic or manual mods; in this way you can be sure of choosing the right settings for the shot and thereby avoid blurred images

Eric Hartwell runs the photography resource site http://www.theshutter.co.uk and the associated discussion forums as well as the regular weblog at http://thephotographysite.blogspot.com

Thursday, February 12, 2009

in the zone photographic jargon explained

In the Zone - Photographic Jargon ExplainedWriten by Henry Bateman

In the zone is a term used by street photographers when they are tuned into their surroundings and the pictures are coming easily.

It isnt unique to street photography, it can happen in any field of endeavour. You are in the zone when you are so engrossed in an activity that space and time seem to stand still. What seems like minutes to you can be hours in the real world. It is that place where you are doing rather than thinking about doing, there is no thought about the how, it is just happening.

Intuition is in the drivers seat, training, knowledge, experience and rational thought are at the back of the bus. More than likely playing strip poker or engaged in some other childish pursuit.

It is the street photographers nirvana. They are one with the street. They are part of and at the same time removed from the activity that is happening. They are the objective viewer of the dance they are dancing. Their presence is integral to the action and accepted by the other participants without influencing the proceedings. There are no photo faces; its almost as if the photographer is invisible.

Canadian street photographer John Brownlow talks about going blank, he surveys the scene through his camera until he goes blank and that is when he presses the shutter.

With painting, writing or gaming it can last for considerable amounts of time, with street photography it tends to be fleeting but can happen several times in a shoot. It is the dynamic of the street, the ever changing kaleidoscope of activity, and the nature of photography, the captured moment in time, that make it so.

But it is in those moments that the inspirational pics happen. Although this is not apparent until later, when looking through the results of your walk, because rational thought was losing their shirt at the back of the bus.

When a street photographer takes their camera for a walk, being in the zone is their destination.

Henry bateman is an artist/photographer who finds his inspiration in the streets he wanders. His work can be seen at http://www.pissedpoet.com and this article with pictures at http://www.pissedpoet.com/zone.html

photographs everywhere but is it really art

Photographs Everywhere, But Is It Really Art?Writen by Sue Kennedy

I once heard a lady say to a photographer that she would have bought his work if it had been a painting. She liked the image, but for whatever reason didn't consider the medium suitable for her it's just a photo.

I am sure that some share her thoughts, whilst others would be quite happy either way, but a growing number of people do recognise photography as an Art form. And collect it.

There are three fundamental components of what we call art. First, is the artist; second, is the medium; and third is the artwork. All three, clearly are interrelated. Tad Beckman

Defining photographic art

It is true many people do regard photography as merely a reproductive medium, and the photographer as simply the technician. And if this were just about your holiday snaps then it would be a valid point.

So let's start with my definition of photographic art. I say my definition because there is no stock answer it means different things to different people.

For me it's about creating a beautiful image that is an interpretation of the scene that I saw in my mind captured on film, rather than just a recording of what is already there.

It's about the photographer being the choreographer of the various components; the composition is critical, as is the lighting, weather conditions and the colours at play.

It's not just about pressing the shutter release, although timing is everything. Patience comes into play too, as you wait for all the components to be perfect all at the same time.

Some things you can control, but the weather well that constantly throws out surprises that can add that hint of drama to a picture or send you home disappointed.

It's these uncertainties that add the challenge, and this results in creativity as you respond to the situation. Other photographers will have their own criteria, but we all are producing very personal pieces of work that we feel passionate about and that are a representation of our interpretation of the world.

A photograph - more than just a sheet of paper with an image on it?

Oh yes! Typically a photographer will capture an image that pleases their eye. They will create something that is close to their heart, and therefore give a little of themselves in the image.

Effectively they are allowing you to see how they perceive the world to be, one moment at a time. Add into the fact that many photographers print their own work (once they have an order!), and sign it then you could say you are buying a piece of history - or designer art!

In other words you are not buying a mass produced print, and naturally the price reflects this. You are buying into the reputation of that photographer and you will expect to pay more. When someone is starting out and building reputation then you are investing in the potential of that person.

You won't pay as much, but you'll be backing your own instinct and demonstrating your belief in that person's talent. Contemporary photography is affordable art.

Subject matter - does it matter?

Personally I don't believe it does, and I mean this in the sense that people will be drawn to your work because they have seen something of yours and liked your style, and typically that means they like your choice of subject matter too.

My preference is for landscapes and increasingly flowers, whilst other photographers prefer sport, people or a more abstract approach to name but a few.

I think the key to preserving artistic integrity is to shoot for your own personal satisfaction, although naturally as your reputation builds you will develop an understanding of what collectors want, but for me I always have to love the image myself to want to share it with the world. Anything less and it stays in the drawer!

I still experiment, and search for new subject matter, but my photographic style is what it is. It just keeps evolving.

A new language

Understanding the language of the image is something quite individual to the viewer, it does not explain itself in the same way to each person. It is subjective. And although some may view photography as easy, believing that there own point and shoot cameras can produce similar results to a master photographer are confusing the issue.

After all most of us have made paintings at some time in our lives, and may still own paint brushes, but wouldn't necessarily look at a painting by a master and not consider it to be art would we?

It is the heart and hand of the author behind the brush, camera or pen that executes the creative vision not the tools used.

About the author: Sue Kennedy, LRPS & LBIPP
Sue Kennedy is an UK based photographer specialising in outdoor photography and works on commission for companies & individuals as well as shooting for picture libraries. To purchase from Sues current print and card selection visit her Website http://www.blueeyesphoto.com

Copyright 2004 Sue Kennedy
Blue Eyes Photography Ltd

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

simple ways to protect your past

Simple Ways to Protect Your PastWriten by William Heroy

Each photograph has a story, which is different, but the ending is usually the same. People are sometimes desperate to save a bit of their history, and often it is crumbling before their eyes. These photographic treasures often need magic to take a faded, torn, wrinkled, or water-stained snapshot and restore it to its original beauty.

Why would you want to read an article about the care of old photographs? Because one day they may be important to you, and if you think there is reason to protect them now rather than wait a year or so, consider that one day you might have to go through the expensive and generally aggravating experience of re-creating something that would be so easy to protect now.

Sometimes it is just good to spend a little time with old photos just to reflect - it's good for the soul and the rewards always exceed the cost. Proper care for what has been handed down to you at no cost to you, and with only an imaginary value, should not be taken lightly. Idealistically, care of family artifacts should, from one generation to another, be properly carried out. There are countless mishaps to family photographs that might have been prevented if only someone had taken some simple precautions.

So what are these simple precautions? For the most part they will be easy to explain, but first you must locate the family photographs and carefully assess their current condition. Hopefully, they will still be in the shoebox in the attic and the roof hasn't leaked. Handling of individual photographs can make all the difference in the world, chances are if you have photographs that were produced before 1950, they were made from silver salts, which also include the ones that look brown or are colored with oils. Over the years the paper hardens and so does the emulsion, which contains the image you wish to preserve. They become brittle and very easily and permanently damaged should they get bent. Plastic in newer prints also gets brittle over time and first shows signs or deterioration when very small splits begin to appear on the surface.

Bending the photograph accelerates splitting of the emulsion until a crack becomes clearly visible. Generally, this is irreversible damage. Nobody could be that negligent you might think, but most damage is accidental. One very common mistake is to try to remove a photograph that has been glued into an album. Most often, it will rip apart. Damage usually occurs accidentally and often while the entrusted material is in your custody. It also happens while on loan to others, in the mail system, or by a concerned someone who didn't understand proper handling techniques. Since most photographs are one of a kind, it is best to understand the risks involved before you begin to gather your materials.

The archival part of real black & white, sepia, or oil-tinted photographs is the silver process itself. Silver is a metal and cannot degrade any further. When it combines with other compounds such as sulfur sulfite in a toning process, the resulting processes yield different chemical formulas and with different chemical formulas you get different visual effects, but most have silver as their base principal component. Other metals such as gold or platinum may also be incorporated in photographic imaging. When silver, gold or platinum salts aggravate a paper surface after being exposed to light, the result is the image you see. When the paper dries after processing, the image hardens as a very thin emulsion and should never be bent. Photographs printed on tin or glass have rigid substrates, but can be easily damaged by scratching or high humidity.

The daguerreotype is generally considered the oldest of the old and even though some may be more than 160 years in age, one in good condition is a sight to behold. Unlike the process of contemporary color as most of us know it, the silver process used in black and white photography is far more stable and hicker than the multitude of dyes used in the manufacture of color photo paper today. Early photographs generally contain high contents of silver, which account for their exceptional ability to with stand time and capture the past. Often you will see a photograph shine when the silver has been exposed to high humidity, but rarely will the image disappear entirely.

Natural color photos, as we know them, need to be protected from ultraviolet rays of the sun. Because they are made from chemical dyes, their ability to maintain the color intensity level we see when we first get them depends in large part on the protection they get from exposure to the high energy of UV light. Over time, a ed or green image is left which is not easily restored to its original condition. Products on today's market, such as those generated from computers, often boast permanent inks, but they remain untested. So far, the only color pigments I have found in the thousands of photos I have worked on that are archival are the oil based pigments and pastels. Generally, a skilled artist applies them to a photograph. To resist scratching and moisture, the photograph was sometimes finished with a sealing lacquer.

It is also important to have an understanding of what archival quality is as it pertains to photographic materials and a general knowledge of the way they are constructed. Simply put, a black and white photograph is an arrangement of silver molecules imbedded in a clear gelatin resting on a paper surface. On the other hand, a color photograph is an arrangement of chemical compounds sandwiched on the surface of the paper and deteriorates and looses the image. Restoration of a faded color photograph often cannot be recovered without in-depth digital technology combined with an artists skill to add color back to the photo. Once you have identified the photos you wish to put into your album, you should assess their condition and determine what is necessary to preserve what you have, then keep them dry, flat, and out of direct sunlight.

A simple way to save large quantities of images or transfer them to others is to scan them into a computer and onto a CD. It is cheap and easy. Though the visuals lack the personality reflected in the character of the originals, they are still fun for you to enjoy.

Simple precautions often prevent permanent damage. When asking to borrow photographs from others, bear in mind they probably are one of a kind and you are entrusted with an important responsibility. Someone who has not had their photos returned to them in the past is unlikely to loan them out in the future. In summary, never bend them and keep them away from liquid moisture, high humidity, and direct sunlight.

When photos are well preserved, they will be easier to see and appreciate. Always, they lead to stories, some good, some sad, and others just plain remarkable.

William Heroy Owner of Old Photo Specialists Founded in 1973

If you would like more information:

Visit Our Website
http://www.oldphotospecialists.com OR email us at oldphotospecialists@triad.rr.com

Old Photo Specialists is a highly specialized restoration studio. We provide a variety of services including original restoration, digital restoration, archival black and white and sepia tone printing, hand oil tinting, oils on canvas and a large variety of photography services. We educate our clients on how to take care of, preserve, and archive their precious family photos.

Write to Our Studio
Old Photo Specialist
909 N. Elm St.
Greensboro, NC 27401
(336) 271-6960

 

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